viernes, 25 de mayo de 2018

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo


Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

Macarons chocolate y caramelo. El sonido de la música.
La unión del chocolate y el caramelo es un clásico de la repostería. Desde los bombones que añaden una densa capa de caramelo, pasando por sublimes de alta repostería de Gaston Lenôtre hasta los macarons de Pierre Hermé. Pero pese a todo, para mí, en unos macarons, mousse o entrement, el mejor modo de no ocultar el aroma de caramelo es dentro de crema muselina de caramelo y chocolate, a modo de crema, no como una ganache, en la que el sabor del caramelo puede resultar menos perceptible. Sublime.

Aquí está mi discreto pero voluntarioso homenaje a la música, al violín, a los/as maestros/as implicados/as y a todos/as aquellas personas que día a día pretenden hacer que nuestra vida sea un perdurable caminar por senderos de “zonas happy”. Cho-co-la-te, ca-ra-me-lo...”
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Macarons de chocolate y caramelo



Todos los macarons del mundo y mucho más. Capítulo 2: cremas emulsionadas con mantequilla. Crema Muselina

Otro tipo de relleno, otro modo de imaginar nuevos aromas o texturas. Otra base para la eterna creatividad que nunca se acaba. Hasta el fin, aquí, torturado por esa inacabable sensación de vacío y necesidad de descubrir algo diferente, nuevo o, simplemente, evasivo.

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

Lo mencionaba en la anterior receta, existen muchos modo de preparar rellenos para macarons, entre los que podría acentuar: (1) las ganaches de chocolate, elaborados con nata, zumo/pulpa de frutas –normalmente de sabores intensos, ácidos, para realzar la mezcla–, o leche, que pueden incorporar un poco de mantequilla para darle consistencia y untuosidad, así como otro aroma o azúcares (invertido) para mejorar la textura y contrarrestar el amargor; (2) cremas mantequilla aromatizadas, las más tradicionales, de textura y sabores ligeros, sutiles, pero de consistencia calórica nada despreciable; (3) cremas muselina, cremas “pasteleras” aromatizadas y emulsionadas con una cantidad variable de mantequilla que puede oscilas entre ¼ o ½ del peso de la crema, siempre dependiendo de la densidad inicial o la textura deseada. La crema muselina también puede basarse en una crema mantequilla, pero para mi gusto su sabor resulta menos intenso y demasiado sutil como relleno de macarons. De hecho, suele ser una buena opción para tartas.

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

En esta entrada presento unos macarons rellenos de una sencilla crema muselina cuya base es una crema pastelera al caramelo. Creo que muchas veces nos obsesionamos con preparaciones demasiado laboriosas, como cremas mantequilla, para obtener unas diferencias de densidad casi imperceptibles.
La crema pastelera que se emplea como base para cremas muselinas para rellenar macarons suele hacerse con huevos enteros y no con yemas, pues aportan mayor densidad a la crema y los macarons aguantan en estado óptimo durante más tiempo en el frigorífico, sin reblandecerse en exceso. Prefiero preparar las cremas con yemas de huevo, más suaves, y aportar esa densidad restante con un poco de gelatina, que actúa, además, como elemento retenedor de líquidos.
No he querido añadir demasiado chocolate a la crema, pues me interesa conservar ese sabor a caramelo. Así, el cacao de la galleta y los 35 gr de chocolate con leche, más ligero que el negro de cobertura, son más que suficientes para conseguir el sabor deseado y que el chocolate no camufle al caramelo. Por supuesto, podría añadirse más chocolate, pero ya no sería esta receta y el resultado, también delicioso, no sería el que yo deseaba expresar.

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

Macobsesion

Si todavía no os habéis cansado de mí, estáis a tiempo, porque esto no se queda aquí. Decenas de nuevas recetas de todo tipo. Saladas, veganas, orientales, ligeras, tradicionales con toques actuales, dulces exóticos, bollería, fritos o entremeses. Pero no. Este 2018 ha sido una constante obsesión por los sabores del macaron. Un divertimento constante para hacer pruebas de todo tipo con rellenos a base ganaches, cremas muselinas, pralinés… chuches. Dulces o incluso salados.
He automatizado tanto el proceso, que no tardo ni media hora en realizar las galletas, menos si la almendra o la avellana ya la tengo previamente tamizada. Hecho que sucede con frecuencia, cuando quiero adelantar el “trabajo” (para mí es un placer evasivo) y prepararlos mientras hago la cena o estoy con otras tareas que deba realizar en la cocina.

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

Si no las publico se quedarán olvidadas en la enésima libreta de notas. Ésta con la leyenda: “Macarons”. Empecé con la frambuesa. Días, semanas, dándole mil vueltas: con rosa -la primera-, en cremas, en ganache de chocolate (negro), en confitura o en forma de… será la siguiente. Seguí con las ganaches de intenso contraste, con frutas más o menos exóticas de sabor intenso. Los caramelos secos, en crema o, simplemente, con mantequilla emulsionada. Los pralinés, preferiblemente de avellana, en muselinas, cremas mantequilla, en giandujas… Interminables. En medio, algunos eclairs que no eran más que pruebas hechas con cremas para rellenar macarons, sólo restaría ajustar la cantidad exacta de mantequilla para emulsionar y emplearlo como relleno.

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

La receta de hoy podría usarse para unos eclairs/petit choux si disminuimos o eliminamos la mantequilla (25 gr serían suficientes) o prescindimos el chocolate para tener un relleno sólo de crema de caramelo. Lo fue, fue un relleno de eclair. De la cobertura ni hablamos.

Eclairs de chocolate y caramelo

Recuerda que puedes ver ésta y otras recetas en el blog: http://www.pepinho.com

Clementine. Chocolate-caramelo.

Siete años, tres meses y seis días. Demasiado tiempo.
Rue Bonaparte, a un suspiro de Saint-Sulpice. Sus palabras también eran suspiros. Suspiros de soledad por las calles de París. No podría estar un día más sin encontrar alojamiento. Los de provincias estaban acostumbrados al calor del fuego y la familia, no a las crueles servidumbres de las urbes deshumanizadoras, al gélido aire impersonal.

París

Allí estaba Antoine, apoyado en un bolardo al pie de la noria. ¿Qué estúpido podría quedarse pasmado viendo girar las luces multicolores danzantes del Carrousel? Él. “Fui una estúpida”, pensó. La felicidad reside en lo simple, en la sencillez e ingenuidad de una tarde de domingo, en la mirada de unas luces mareantes y el vértigo de unos interminables giros. Ahora lo sabe. No demasiado tarde, espera.

Jean-Luc. Maldito el día. La cafetería de siempre, de siempre que él quería.

No pudo evitar pararse en la Boutique, como había hecho el día que conoció a Antoine. Pero esta vez sí se compró una caja de macarons, Coffrets assortis. No como entonces, que se limitó a pegar su cara babeante en el cristal del escaparate mientras desde el interior mostraban su desaprobación por las manchas de vaho.

¿Por qué les llaman boutiques? Como si el dulce, los pasteles y los cakes se llevasen puestos. “Sí”, pensó. En forma de grasa y michelines, que ella había conseguido mitigar por su permanente obsesión por el deporte y la vida sana. Aun así, los macarons eran una excepción y un pecado diario. Hecho que no representaba una gran penitencia para poder disfrutar de las debilidades de la carne.

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

Jean-Luc. Cabronazo. Eres demasiado egoísta, egocentrista, que te llevará a pensar que me acerco con el rabo entre las piernas, suplicando un perdón que no me pertenece y llorando por volver a la cárcel. Nunca volvería a abrir las puertas del infierno. ¡Cabronazo! ¡Hijo de la gran perra! ¡Ojalá padezcas todo lo que yo he sufrido! Las heridas se han curado, pero no los puntos. Allí quedarán hasta que me muera.

Compró macarons, la misma caja degustación que él le había regalado en su trigésimo cumpleaños. Pero más pequeña y con doble ración de Ispahan, no vaya a ser que sus casi cien kilos de peso requieran más dosis de la esperada. Jean-Luc, eres un demonio. ¡Cabronazo!

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

La cafetería. Clementine pensaba cómo había conseguido escapar de esos más de seis años de presidio. Todavía le quedaban las marcas, las más perdurables, las que no se curan, las del corazón. Una se acostumbra al sometimiento, se hace inmune al dolor físico, pero las marcas invisibles son permanentes y de dolor eterno.
Llegar a tiempo. Sentarse al pie de la misma mesa, en la misma silla. Jean-Luc, un memo que siempre se retrasa. Lo sabía y no se lo tomó con prisas.

Ispahan. Sus preferidos. Unas gotas en cada galleta. Mejor seis, una por cada año. O siete, por cada día de la semana. O doce. Mejor doce.
Ispahan eran sus preferidos. Sabía que no podría contenerse. Que nunca te cedería uno, porque era ÉL. Clementine destapó cada uno de los macarons y dejó el aroma a orgullo en forma de gotas. Trece. Para ella se reservó el de chocolate y caramelo, que el canalla odiaba.

Esperó, como no, más de treinta minutos. Sabía que su orgullo lo haría demorarse todavía más. Y después de mediar un sencillo saludo, recibiendo el presente (“Te he comprado una caja para ti… menos uno, que me lo he comido mientras esperaba”), se apresuró a devorarlos como una fiera hambrienta. Nada. El adiós de Clementine. Un “paga él” al camarero y la perplejidad de Jean-Luc, confundido… por poco tiempo.


Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

Sólo una breve reseña. Un infarto es muy común entre la juventud impetuosa, y más en París, y más si rondas los cuarenta y eres una verdadera bola de sebo y mierda. Y todavía más si quienes conocen a Clementine saben que es un ángel, marcada por dentro de por vida, señalada por la tolerante intolerancia, con ganas de olvidar. Aunque hay cosas que nunca se olvidan, y menos el dolor.
Se relamió los labios para deleitarse en los últimos aromas de chocolate-caramelo. Por hoy había sido suficiente. Plan para mañana: chocolate y fruta de la pasión, o una llamada a Antoine con la excusa de pedir la receta de esa excitante golosina de frambuesa en forma de macaron. “Espero que no haya cambiado de número.”

Sonrió, pero no pudo evitar sentirse culpable por todo. Una rosa amarga, encerrada en puré de lichis.

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

Uno al día… aun así, me levanto.

Aun así, me levanto. Sin fuerzas, sin ánimo, pero me levanto. Me levanto porque tengo un hijo que amo, que me necesita, y deseo aprenda de sus errores, no como yo.
Me levanto porque tengo esperanza, aunque la desesperanza pronto se apodera de mí. Me levanto esperando que deje de llover y la luz ayude a mitigar el dolor. Me levanto porque, a pesar de todo, siempre hay algo leve que me aferra a esta vida, aunque la vida no quiera aferrarse a mí y la comprensión se escape a través de los poros de mi piel.

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo

Ni el dolor, ni el lamento, ni la incomprensión podrían acabar con la energía, ¿la única?, que me sostiene. El amor de un hijo, el compromiso marcado a fuego de no abandonarlo nunca, de acompañarlo hasta la verja que marca la entrada al sendero que guiará su camino, por mucho que fuerces al azar para que éste te juegue una mala pasada… por mucho que te mutiles sin saber el porqué. Por poco que…
Aun así, me levanto.


You may write me down in history
With your bitter, twisted lies,
You may trod me in the very dirt
But still, like dust, I'll rise.

Does my sassiness upset you?
Why are you beset with gloom?
'Cause I walk like I've got oil wells
Pumping in my living room.

Just like moons and like suns,
With the certainty of tides,
Just like hopes springing high,
Still I'll rise.

Did you want to see me broken?
Bowed head and lowered eyes?
Shoulders falling down like teardrops,
Weakened by my soulful cries?

Does my haughtiness offend you?
Don't you take it awful hard
'Cause I laugh like I've got gold mines
Diggin' in my own backyard.

You may shoot me with your words,
You may cut me with your eyes,
You may kill me with your hatefulness,
But still, like air, I'll rise.

Does my sexiness upset you?
Does it come as a surprise
That I dance like I've got diamonds
At the meeting of my thighs?

Out of the huts of history's shame
I rise
Up from a past that's rooted in pain
I rise
I'm a black ocean, leaping and wide,
Welling and swelling I bear in the tide.

Leaving behind nights of terror and fear
I rise
Into a daybreak that's wondrously clear
I rise
Bringing the gifts that my ancestors gave,
I am the dream and the hope of the slave.
I rise
I rise
I rise.


Maya Angelou (1928 – 2014)


Aun así, me levanto.


Tú puedes escribirme en la historia
con tus amargas, torcidas mentiras,
puedes arrojarme al fango
y aun así, como el polvo… yo me levanto.

¿Mi descaro te molesta?
¿Por qué estás ahí quieto, apesadumbrado?
Porque camino
como si fuera dueña de pozos petroleros,
bombeando en la sala de mi casa.

Como lunas y como soles,
con la certeza de las mareas,
como las esperanzas brincando alto.
Así, yo me levanto.

¿Me quieres ver destrozada?
Con la cabeza agachada y los ojos bajos,
los hombros caídos como lágrimas,
debilitados por mi llanto desconsolado.

¿Mi arrogancia te ofende?
No te tomes tan a pecho
que yo ría como si tuviera minas de oro,
excavándose en el mismo patio de mi casa.

Puedes dispararme con tus palabras,
puedes herirme con tus ojos,
puedes matarme con tu odio,
y aun así, como el aire, yo me levanto.
(…)


Maya Angelou (1928 – 2014)

Felices días.

Macarons de chocolate y caramelo
Macarons de y caramelo

Puede prepararse el relleno antes de la masa de los macarons para que cuando las galletas estén hechas podamos rellenarlas una vez frías, sin esperas, y no demorar mucho más la eterna expectativa… Una vez rellenas es OBLIGATORIO esperar un mínimo de 24 a 48 horas, dependiendo de la humedad del relleno. En el caso de una crema muselina, dependiendo de la densidad obtenida y proporción de líquido, 24 horas suele ser más que suficiente y, en algún caso, no es recomendable dejarla demasiados días, pues la galleta absorbe demasiada humedad. No es el caso, aunque dependerá de nuestro interés y técnica.

Masa de macaron

Necesitaremos unas dos (o tres, si son pequeñas) planchas de silicona, así como dos bandejas de horno. Para mí, lo ideal es que las planchas de horno sobre las que depositemos los macarons sean de silicona para que no se deformen mientras se hornean, aunque también podría usarse papel de horno de buena calidad, grueso. El papel de horno fino puede deformarse durante el horneado y alterar la forma del macaron durante la cocción, quedando con una base irregular. Además, tiende a tostarse demasiado por la base, quedando una parte superior blanda y una base demasiado tostada. Tradicionalmente incluso se llegaban a poner dos planchas para evitar ese efecto.

Yo uso dos bandejas y dos planchas de silicona, gracias a las nuevas dimensiones del horno. Antes usaba una tercera tanda de macarons, ya con menor cantidad de masa, depositándolos sobre una lámina de silicona, fijando cuidadosamente la plancha sobre la bandeja con un peso (cuchillos metálicos planos, normalmente) hasta que se secara la superficie de la masa y fuese fácil moverla sin que se deformasen. Ahora me limito a poner 5 puntos de masa entre la plancha de silicona y la bandeja para que no se muevan y el resultado es el mismo, o mejor. ;-)
La temperatura de cocción ideal del nuevo horno es lo que más me ha costado descubrir, pues el nuevo horno conserva la temperatura mejor y, aparentemente, la mantiene durante más tiempo. Tras varias pruebas, no han sido pocas, he comprobado que la temperatura ronda los 150º C (145º como temperatura ideal de cocción), como mucho, durante unos 10-14 minutos, dependiendo del tamaño de las galletas y lo caliente que esté el horno (un horno no mantiene la temperatura exacta durante todo el tiempo). También suelo abrir el horno durante un segundo pasados los 9 minutos para evitar la condensación de vapor de agua cuando veo que los cristales se empañan.

Alguna vez he hecho los macarons con una menor proporción de azúcar en el jarabe, en cucho caso cambio las proporciones entre la cantidad de clara de huevo que monto (aumento ligeramente) y la que añado líquida a la mezcla (la disminuyo en la misma proporción). Esas cantidades las he puesto entre paréntesis.

Me repetiré durante la descripción del proceso, pero lo hago para recalcar los puntos más importantes del proceso ;-) ¡Suerte!


110 gr. almendra molida y bien tamizada.
110 gr. de azúcar polvo (azúcar lustre, para el tant pour tant [*])

40 gr. de claras para añadir al tant pour tant [*] (1 clara grande) (35)
110-115 gr. de azúcar grano (para el jarabe) (88) [**]
20 gr de cacao puro en polvo [***]
28-30 gr. de agua (para el jarabe) (35)
40 gr. de claras, mejor de varios días, para montar con el jarabe. (1 clara grande) (44)

[*] ”Tant pour tant” (TPT). Así se llama a la mezcla a partes iguales, “tanto por tanto”, normalmente de harina de un fruto seco con azúcar impalpable. En este caso, de almendra molida tamizada y azúcar polvo

[**] Como siempre queda jarabe/azúcar en el cazo, me gusta añadir unos gramos más a la cantidad necesaria (110 gr), por lo que suelo hacer un jarabe con unos 115-120 gr de azúcar.”

[***] La cantidad de cacao en polvo siempre la añado a ojo, dependiendo si le quiero aportar más o menos sabor y color. Si añadimos mucho hay que tener en cuenta que cambiamos ligeramente la densidad de la mezcla, por lo que puede añadirse uno o dos gramos más de claras sin montar al TPT o trabajar más la masa para que no quede demasiado densa. Entre 10 y 25 gr, como mucho, es más que suficiente. Si se tiene puede añadirse manteca de cacao.


(1) Tant pour tant. Es importante tamizar muy finamente la almendra molida si se desea que la superficie del macarons quede lisa, aunque otro factor muy importante es el uso de un buen merengue italiano. Tamizamos la almendra molida (110 gr.) y el azúcar polvo (110 gr.), mezclándolos bien en un cuenco grande y sacudiendo el recipiente para evitar que se formen grumos. Reservamos la mezcla en el cuenco grande en el que vayamos a preparar la masa del macaron.
Ahora, para ahorrar tiempo y acelerar el proceso (el tamizado de la almendra era la fase más pesada y lenta de la preparación), muelo el azúcar con un molinillo de café, lo mezclo con la almendra molida sin tamizar, a partes iguales, y trituro toda la mezcla con la trituradora de cuchillas de la batidora, agitando bien para que quede homogénea y lo justo para no se desprendan los aceites de la almendra (si nos pasamos tendríamos un praliné, pues se desprenderían los aceites de la almendra. Ojo con esto). Se tritura en varios intervalos de unos segundos, con pausas entre ellos, batiendo para mezclar bien.
Añadimos el cacao en polvo a la mezcla de almendra y azúcar. Mezclamos bien hasta que no haya grumos.

(2) El uso de un termómetro es relativamente importante para conseguir el punto idóneo del jarabe. Si se tiene experiencia no es totalmente necesario, sí mucho más cómodo y práctico. Alguna vez no he usado el termómetro, pero hay que ver bien el punto de jarabe.
Preparación de un merengue italiano con un jarabe a 117ºC. Empezamos vertiendo los primeros 40 gr. de claras de huevo en un cazo, preparando el batidor eléctrico para montar las claras. Ponemos a fuego fuerte (al máximo) los 110-115 gr de azúcar grano con el agua. Cuando el jarabe alcance los 105º C, empezamos a montar las claras hasta que queden a medio montar, no demasiado firmes. Cuando el jarabe alcance los 117-120ºC, nunca más, y sin dejar de batir, lo vertemos en forma de hilo sobre las claras casi montadas. Seguimos batiendo hasta que quede un merengue brillante y haya alcanzado unos 50ºC, aprox.

(3)
Formamos un pequeño volcán sobre la mezcla de almendra-azúcar lustre (TPT) yvertemos los 40 gr. de claras restantes y el colorante en él.
Mezclamos un poquito, muy poco. Añadimos el merengue mezclando sin excesiva delicadeza, más bien con cierto desdén y rapidez, dependiendo de cuán consistente nos haya quedado el merengue, hasta que quede una pasta blanda y brillante, lisa. Al levantar la masa con una espátula, ésta debe recuperar su posición, pero no de forma inmediata, poco a poco. Hay que ir probando hasta tener la densidad idónea. El punto exacto de densidad sólo lo da la experiencia o la suerte ;-), o las dos cosas a la vez.

Aclaración: éste es uno de los puntos más importantes para que el macaron no conserve el pico que se forma al usar la manga pastelera (si es demasiado densa) o la masa se extienda demasiado quedando un macaron demasiado fino (si la masa es muy fluida). Para controlar la densidad de la masa la levantamos con la espátula de silicona y debe perder el pico pasados unos cuantos segundos. Si es muy fluida debemos dejar que la masa repose algún tiempo antes de introducirla en la manga pastelera. Si la masa es muy densa y no recupera la posición al levantarla, debemos trabajarla más con la espátula de silicona. También podemos añadir una pizca de claras sin montar si queda muy densa..

Cuando la masa está con la densidad apropiada, preparamos las bandejas y las láminas de silicona (2 grandes). Así ayudamos a la formación del macaron y que no se desparrame en exceso o, si nos queda algo densa, la trabajamos un poco antes de rellenar la manga. Sólo es cuestión de práctica. Cuando formemos los primeros macarons debemos observar cómo se comporta la masa para saber si la debemos dejar reposar unos minutos o debemos trabajarla un poco más para que quede más suelta.

(4) Marcamos las bandejas con 5 pizcas de la masa en las esquinas y el centro, como mínimo, y, si se desea que quede bien sellada, en el centro de cada lado. Esas pequeñas manchas servirán para fijar la lámina de silicona a la bandeja durante el horneado. Depositamos las planchas de silicona sobre las bandejas, intentando que queden bien planas y adheridas. Antes también solía poner cuchillos planos pesados, de mango metálico, en los laterales para evitar que se deformase la plancha de silicona durante el horneado y quedase perfectamente plana (si el tamaño de las planchas excede ligeramente el tamaño de la bandeja hará que se doble). Ahora ya no lo hago.

Con una manga pastelera del tamaño deseado (uso una de tipo “pistola”) formamos pequeñas porciones, separándolas unos dos o tres centímetros, como mínimo, pues puede extenderse algo (no tanto como unas galletas de mantequilla). Si vemos que las masa del macaron ha quedado demasiado densa (el pico central por el efecto de retirar la manga no baja pasados unos segundos) podemos trabajar la masa restante un poco más; si están demasiado fluidas, debemos dejar reposar la masa antes de rellenar la manga de nuevo.

(5) Importante. Antes de hornear dejaremos reposar la masa de las galletas, ya formadas, por período de unas 2 horas, incluso más, hasta que la superficie se haya secado ligeramente, formando una película algo consistente. El tiempo depende de las condiciones ambientales.
Solía aprovechar para ir a correr (cada vez más tiempo pero muchísimo más lento y con dolor) o hacer otras cosas, por lo que estaban entre 2 y 3 horas. Mejor 3, incluso 4. Ahora las dejo secando en el horno a 30º C en modo descongelación por una hora o más (unas dos horas), dependiendo de la época del año y la humedad ambiental.. Más rápido. Cuanto más reposo más pie y más lisos.

Pasado el tiempo, precalentamos el horno a 150-145ºC (es la temperatura ideal para mi nuevo horno) y, una vez caliente, introducimos la primera bandeja [1]. El tiempo total de horneado debe rondar los 10-14 min, dependiendo del tamaño de los macarons y las condiciones del horno. Los 10-14 minutos es un buen punto de partida, salvo que sean muy pequeños.
[1] En realidad, precaliento el horno a 150ºC y bajo la temperatura hasta 145ºC cuando la haya alcanzado. Espero 5 minutos e introduzco los macarons. Así garantizo que se cocerán a 145ºC y no a menos temperatura, obteniendo unos macarons nada tostados y perfectos para rellenar. A los 9 minutos les echo un vistazo.
Para evitar la condensación de vapor de agua en el horno, solía poner el filo de un cuchillo en la puerta del horno pasados unos 8 minutos. Ya no lo hago, pues me procuro que el horno esté bien seco antes de proceder al horneado o abro el horno si veo que se empieza a empañar el cristal. Una pequeñísima ranura es más que suficiente. En hornos profesionales acostumbra a hornearse con el tiro abierto. Es una buena opción abrir el horno pasados 9 minutos y volver a cerrarlo para que terminen de cocerse.

Nunca debemos esperar a que lleguen a tostarse, deben retirarse justo antes de que empiecen a tostarse. Ése es el punto. Si después de fríos se pegan a la bandeja es que han quedado crudos y la siguiente hornada la dejaremos algún minuto más. Si quedan muy tostados en la base es que han estado mucho tiempo o la temperatura es ligeramente alta.
Se despegan siempre cuando estén totalmente fríos. Unos 10 minutos. Paciencia.

(6) Retiramos las galletas del horno y dejamos que se enfríen totalmente antes de desmoldarlos con ayuda de una espátula plana metálica (mal rollo, pues no es necesario si han quedado en su punto) o doblando la plancha de silicona (el modo tradicional de emplear vapor de agua para desmoldarlos ya no se usa por el empleo de planchas de silicona). Si se pegan es que necesitan más tiempo de cocción. La masa del macaron debe quedar crujiente por fuera, no cruda, pero deben deformarse con la presión del dedo. Es cuando se aplica el relleno cuando absorbe la humedad necesaria para que quede con la textura apropiada, deshaciéndose en la boca. Blando. Por eso es muy importante, obligado, dejar que reposen en el frigorífico dentro de un recipiente hermético un mínimo de 24-48 horas antes de degustarlos, dependiendo de la proporción de humedad del relleno.
Si se trata de un relleno con muy poca humedad puede pulverizarse la parte interna de las galletas con un poco vapor de agua.

Muy importante: una vez rellenos, los macarons deben dejarse reposar en un recipiente hermético dentro del frigorífico durante un mínimo de 24-48 horas. Como la textura de la masa del macaron es ligeramente crujiente, el reposo hace que vaya absorbiendo parte de la humedad del relleno y se vuelvan blanditos, tiernos y suaves, deshaciéndose en la boca. Nunca deben tomarse recién hechos, su textura sería la de un merengue de almendra seco, poco agradable. Es un “pecado” comerlos recién hechos ;-). (¿Pecado? ¿Qué significa esa palabra?).



Muselina de caramelo y chocolate

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100 gr de azúcar (o 110 gr si nos gusta darle caña al dulce. 110 para mí.).
250 gr de leche semidesnatada.
½ rama de vainilla (o una cucharilla de vainillina), c. s. de piel de una naranja y limón (sin parte blanca ambas). También puede añadirse un poco de canela en rama o molida, una pizca [*]
40 gr de yema de huevo (2 unidades)
10 gr de maicena.
10 gr de pudding de flan (Flanin) o maicena si no se tiene [**]
2 pizca de sal (potencia el sabor del caramelo y chocolate)
1 Hoja de gelatina hidratada y escurrida (2 gr).
35 gr de chocolate con leche de cobertura 40% cacao.
100 gr de mantequilla.
[*] Sí, uno nunca tiene claro si está tirando su dinero cuando aromatiza un postre con una cucharadita de vainilla líquida o una rama cuando el porcentaje es muy pequeño con respecto al peso total de ingredientes. Lo mismo pasa con otros aromas, como la naranja o el limón, pero en muchísima menor medida, pues eso sí se nota. De hecho, en el ámbito de los videojuegos, suele denominarse al jugador que juega sin características especiales, personalizaciones o mods como “Vanilla player”. El que no aporta nada…
Para mí sí es importante, porque ese pequeño poso final en el paladar sí se nota, y, aunque podría prescindirse de estos aromas, son para mí siempre un valor añadido, incluso una pequeña combinación de ellos, ajustados a mi gusto. En este caso no debemos pasarnos con los cítricos o evitarlos si no deseamos arriesgarnos.
[**] El uso de crema en polvo o pudding es muy común en el ámbito profesional como sustituto de la maicena para aromatizar y darle densidad la mezcla. No es ninguna aberración, al contrario, si usamos otros aromas… ¿por qué no usar un espesante aromatizado? Recomendaría aquellos espesantes aromatizados que usan como base fécula (maíz o patata), aunque lleven carragenatos otros espesantes de origen vegetal, pues algunos espesantes requieren determinadas condiciones para conseguir condensar la mezcla.


(1) (Preparamos la crema el día anterior, para que repose toda la noche). Hidratamos la gelatina en agua muy fría, para que no se funda, y la secamos con un paño. En un cuenco infusionamos la leche con la vainilla, unas pizcas de canela molida y las pieles sin parte blanca, si las usamos, poca. Dejamos que temple.
Preparamos un caramelo seco a fuego medio, sin que se queme pero que tenga un color tostado. Mientras se va haciendo el caramelo hervimos la leche con la vainilla y las pieles sin parte blanca. Vertemos la leche caliente, colándola, muy poco a poco, para que no baje muy rápidamente la temperatura del caramelo y se formen cristales. A medida que añadimos la leche removemos con unas varillas, intentando disolver todo el azúcar.
Bajamos el fuego y removemos hasta que todo el caramelo esté disuelto.

(2) Batimos las yemas con la maicena y la crema en polvo. Añadimos la mezcla de leche caliente, poco a poco y removiendo bien para que no se cuaje.
Llevamos al fuego y, sin dejar de remover en ningún momento, calentamos a fuego medio hasta que espese, como una crema pastelera.
Cuando haya espesado batimos con más fuerza para que quede homogénea y retiramos del fuego. Añadimos la gelatina hidratada (bien escurrida), removiendo bien para que se disuelva e integre en la mezcla.
Al momento, añadimos el chocolate troceado y batimos enérgicamente con un batidor de varillas para que se disuelva en su totalidad. Añadimos dos pizcas de sal. Pasamos por la batidora si han quedado grumos.
Cuando la temperatura ronda los 40-45ºC, a lo sumo, añadimos la mantequilla fría y troceada, batiendo con una batidora durante unos minutos, 3 o más, para que emulsione bien. Es importante que la temperatura no sea alta, pues lo que queremos es que la mantequilla se emulsione en la crema y no se funda. 40 ºC es una temperatura adecuada.
Volcamos en un recipiente, cubriendo la superficie con película de cocina (lo hago a veces) y cuando haya templado o enfriado llevamos al frigo durante toda la noche para que coja consistencia.

(3) Al día siguiente, con ayuda de una manga pastelera rellenamos los macarons, depositando la cantidad suficiente sobre una de las caras. A ser posible, si los macarons están en su punto, hacemos una pequeña depresión en el centro de una de las galletas para depositar mayor (y mejor) cantidad de relleno, intentando que no se rompa al hacerlo.
Cerramos los macarons con la otra cara, ejerciendo una ligera presión para que el relleno llegue justo hasta el borde, sin pasarse ni quedarse corto ;-)

Guardamos los macarons rellenos en el frigorífico dentro de un recipiente bien cerrado durante unas 24-48 horas. Como es un relleno basado en una crema, por el porcentaje de humedad, puede estar en perfecto estado pasadas unas 12-24 horas, pero siempre gana sabor después de uno o dos días. Podemos controlar el punto de humedad pasadas 12 o 24 horas.
El porcentaje de humedad del relleno depende la calidad y cantidad del espesante (maicena y crema en polvo) y de si la mantequilla la hemos añadido correctamente. No debería ablandarse demasiado rápido. Si lo hace, es que la mantequilla no estaba en su punto o no hemos espesado suficientemente la crema. En ese caso hay que apresurarse en tomarlos en un par de días.

Suelen estar mejor a los dos o tres días de rellenarlas. Deben quedar tiernos por fuera y blandos por dentro. Con el tiempo la galleta va adsorbiendo humedad y quedando más tiernos. Como he dicho otras veces, a mí me gusta cuando casi (ojo, “casi”) se deshacen en la boca.
Nunca deben tomarse recién hechos, pues la galleta está demasiado crujiente, la densidad del relleno es muy diferente con respecto a la de la galleta y no se perciben los sabores o aromas del relleno. El relleno se saldría y la galleta estaría crujiente, por eso es importante el reposo.

Pueden tomarse fríos porque, aunque en el caso de ganaches o cremas mantequilla puede ser recomendable retirarlos media hora antes de su consumo para que el relleno esté blando, el uso de crema como base ayuda a la absorción de agua por parte de la galleta.

Si se desea mayor aroma a chocolate puede usarse chocolate negro de cobertura o mayor cantidad de chocolate con leche.
Os deseo una vida llena de momentos “happy”, de chocolate-caramelo.
Felices días.

Recuerda que puedes ver ésta y otras recetas en el blog: http://www.pepinho.com

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